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This information is reprinted from the Beginner Topics
column of Hand Papermaking Newsletter #67 (July, 2004).
To learn how to order Hand Papermaking bi-annual magazine
and quarterly newsletter, click
here.
Dimensional Paper Art
Let’s add some dimension to your paper life. There are
many ways to bring paper “up” from its normally flat
existence. Here is a simple method you can’t go wrong with.
Begin by making a stack of sheets using the basic
sheetforming techniques you have already learned. You should
use cotton or recycled pulp beaten for a fairly short time.
If you wish to move to the head of the class, there are some
staple cottons made for casting, but these must be processed
with a beater or purchased from suppliers in beaten form.
Now, find an interesting, detailed object, anything with
a flat back. This might be an old piece of jewelry, a wood
carving, your ornamental table knife, etc. Make sure there
is no “undercut.” This means that you can see the entire
pattern by looking down on it; no part moves “under” or out
of view. Such objects are perfect to start with, then you
might graduate to a mould that you cast yourself, or
existing moulds such as cake moulds which provide two parts
and therefore become more fully dimensional.
Some type of release agent needs to be applied to the
object. This might be non-stick pan spray used in the
kitchen, or “green soap” from the pharmacy. The latter
provides a non-staining release; simply make a lather and
brush it on the object.
You are ready. Lift one sheet of the damp paper you have
already made, and set it on your object. If the object is
larger than your sheet, start in one corner and work across.
I have found it easiest to use a stencil brush for this
work. Tap the paper down into the hills and valleys of your
object. If you tear the surface, get a small mending piece
from another sheet. Continue tapping the paper against the
object until the surface is covered.
At this point, if you are using a dimensional mould, you
may wish to add layers to make a thicker and sturdier
object. I like to use methyl cellulose as a glue. This is
available from paper suppliers in powdered form and should
be mixed to a stiff consistency. Sometimes you can find this
material as wallpaper paste but be careful: most wallpaper
pastes have changed their ingredients. Apply the paste to
the paper you have put into the mould and then begin again
tapping the next sheet against the surface. Do this with as
many sheets as you like until you have a sturdy base for
your object.
Now you wait for it to dry. It is extremely important
that it dry thoroughly. I am always impatient at this point
so if my object is metal and sturdy I slip the project into
my oven (will we ever get papermaking out of the kitchen?)
and heat it at a very low temperature for an hour or two.
Coax the paper from the object, and you will be amazed by
the fine degree of detail it has captured. If you use
two-part moulds you can have a fully dimensional object.
As a general rule, I believe in starting the preceding
projects by making flat sheets of paper. Many will say you
may use a handful of wet pulp in a mould, but I feel you
will be happier with the detail transferred and the strength
of the finished product if you begin by making a stack of
sheets. And this rounds out my article (pun intended!). Have
fun.
Copyright 2004 Hand Papermaking, Inc.
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